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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.